Photo from www.pennybloodsblackbook.com
Ombra is an East London twist on the Venetian bacaro (bar serving small plates of food), even down to its Regent’s Canal-side location. Chef-owner Andrea Michelon has a background in architecture and his interest in stripped-back urban design is clear. But despite its cool aesthetic, you don’t come to Ombra for the slightly uncomfortable chairs.
A short menu is chalked up beside the bar each day, reflecting the seasonal availability of ingredients plus whatever the team fancy cooking at the time. In keeping with the tapas-style of a bacaro, the food is on the small side but unfussy and supremely comforting. The Fella’s meatloaf was deep and juicy, and the crunch and silk of my home-made pasta with squash, gorgonzola, toasted sage and amaretti was a delight. Desserts are classic and beautiful; creamy tiramisu, thick wedges of cheese and dark chocolate cake. The bread comes from the local E5 Bakehouse and wines and spirits are, of course, predominantly Italian. Friends have raved about the Aperol spritz: an Irn-Bru-orange savoury spirit with prosecco and soda water that I’m yet to develop a taste for.
Prices are reasonable. The Fella and I scoffed two courses each plus wine and coffee, which came to a total of £35 (£17.50 each). Add to that the friendly staff and relaxed atmosphere, and despite its slightly out-of-the-way location and those unforgiving chairs, Ombra seems set for success.
1 Vyner Street, Hackney / Tower Hamlets, London E2 9DG
Nearest tube: Bethnal Green
Nearest overground: Cambridge Heath
Gonerby 