Dennis Severs House

The area around Liverpool Street station is a grinding jam of skyscrapers, fast-food joints and speed-walking banker types jostling for pavement space with teenaged tourists. But in the heart of all of this, at 18 Folgate Street, there’s a small oasis of stillness.

Dennis Severs House is part social history museum, part theatre piece.  The late Mr Severs turned his house into a time capsule: a family home through the 18th and 19th centuries.  Walking through the ten candle-lit rooms, you’re asked to imagine that the occupants have only just left – much like a land-locked Mary Celeste.  In the basement kitchen piles of vegetables lie half-chopped, and upstairs the lady of the house’s unread letters await her return.

In each room’s snapshot of daily life you’re encouraged to look for the “still life drama”; in the chipped Staffordshire tableware, the well-thumbed playing cards and the quill-penned invitations to dine.  As you climb to the higher floors, there’s the slow realisation that the house’s time is moving with you, showing the owners’ fortunes changing over 200 years.

You’re asked not to speak throughout your visit and at first this feels strange.  It’s a lovely way to explore, though, and you can daydream your own stories about the occupants in the warm silence.

The house is open throughout the year but really comes in to its own at Christmas, when it’s transformed by period decorations and fills with the smell of oranges and cloves.  Also on offer are carols by candlelight – check the website for details.

Dennis Severs House, 18 Folgate Street, London E1 6BX

Cost when we visited: £10 each on a Sunday afternoon (visits are priced differently at other times)
Nearest tube / overground: Liverpool Street

Five coffee shops in East London

What the Swedes call fika – a companionable coffee break, often with a slab of cake thrown in for good measure – is now a staple of my weekend. Luckily for me, my patch of the east end has more than its fair share of lovely places to stop for a cup of the good stuff. Here are my five favourite coffee spots.

1) Prufrock
I first fell in love with owner Gwilym Davies’ perfect espressos at Whitecross Street Market.  He’s since left his outdoor stall behind and opened Prufrock in Leather Lane, followed more recently by a teeny sister outlet at Present in Shoreditch High Street.  Both are havens for coffee purists and the Leather Lane branch has a selection of excellent cakes (try the incredibly zingy lemon drizzle).  Staff are friendly and knowledgeable, smoothly accommodating both slow sippers and the gulp-and-go crowd.  You can even pick up some new skills at Leather Lane’s regular barista training and coffee tasting events.
Nearest tube: Old Street
Nearest overground: Shoreditch High Street

2) The Bridge Coffee House and Bar Lounge
The steampunk-style clutter of this coffee place is the reason I keep returning.   An ancient cash register hulks over the bar, the windows are swathed in red velvet and wherever you look there’s the gleam of brass.  It’s a world away from the grime and hustle of Kingsland Road outside.  They serve pastries and light snacks, and in the evening the whole place becomes a bar.
Nearest tube: Old Street
Nearest overground: Shoreditch High Street

3) Fabrique
London’s first proper Swedish bakery burrows into the railway arches behind Hoxton’s Geffrye Museum. As well as offering giantic rye loaves and toothsome cakes, they brew proper Swedish coffee – which means you’ll definitely be wide awake by the time you leave.  Cinnamon buns are dotted with crunchy sugar pearls and the ginger cookies are incredibly more-ish. There’s an emphasis on Swedish festival food, so in early December I’ll be beating a path to their door for lussekatter (sweet saffron buns).
Nearest tube: Old Street
Nearest overground: Hoxton

4) Genesis Cinema Cafe
The recently refurbished Genesis Cinema has created a cool cafe space at its entrance, replete with squashy leather sofas and old film posters.  They buy their beans from the fabulous Nude Espresso, who also ran training sessions to turn box office staff into Inglorious Baristas.  Old-school pastries and cakes are from east end institution Rinkoff’s Bakery.  You can also get a decent glass of wine and Meantime beer.
Nearest tube: Stepney Green
Nearest overground: Whitechapel

5) G&T
Nestled in a tiny spot half-way up Cambridge Heath Road, G&T offer coffee and organic sandwiches and cakes.  More of a take-away than a place to linger (like Prufrock’s Shoreditch branch, the only seats are outside), but it’s definitely worth stopping by for a flat white and a toffee apple muffin.
Nearest tube: Bethnal Green
Nearest overground: Cambridge Heath

Ombra, East London

Ombra is an East London twist on the Venetian bacaro (bar serving small plates of food), even down to its Regent’s Canal-side location.  Chef-owner Andrea Michelon has a background in architecture and his interest in stripped-back urban design is clear. But despite its cool aesthetic, you don’t come to Ombra for the slightly uncomfortable chairs.

A short menu is chalked up beside the bar each day, reflecting the seasonal availability of ingredients plus whatever the team fancy cooking at the time.  In keeping with the tapas-style of a bacaro, the food is on the small side but unfussy and supremely comforting.  The Fella’s meatloaf was deep and juicy, and the crunch and silk of my home-made pasta with squash, gorgonzola, toasted sage and amaretti was a delight. Desserts are classic and beautiful; creamy tiramisu, thick wedges of cheese and dark chocolate cake.  The bread comes from the local E5 Bakehouse and wines and spirits are, of course, predominantly Italian.  Friends have raved about the Aperol spritz: an Irn-Bru-orange savoury spirit with prosecco and soda water that I’m yet to develop a taste for.

Prices are reasonable.  The Fella and I scoffed two courses each plus wine and coffee, which came to a total of £35 (£17.50 each).  Add to that the friendly staff and relaxed atmosphere, and despite its slightly out-of-the-way location and those unforgiving chairs, Ombra seems set for success.

1 Vyner Street, Hackney / Tower Hamlets, London E2 9DG

Nearest tube: Bethnal Green
Nearest overground: Cambridge Heath