Five coffee shops in East London

What the Swedes call fika – a companionable coffee break, often with a slab of cake thrown in for good measure – is now a staple of my weekend. Luckily for me, my patch of the east end has more than its fair share of lovely places to stop for a cup of the good stuff. Here are my five favourite coffee spots.

1) Prufrock
I first fell in love with owner Gwilym Davies’ perfect espressos at Whitecross Street Market.  He’s since left his outdoor stall behind and opened Prufrock in Leather Lane, followed more recently by a teeny sister outlet at Present in Shoreditch High Street.  Both are havens for coffee purists and the Leather Lane branch has a selection of excellent cakes (try the incredibly zingy lemon drizzle).  Staff are friendly and knowledgeable, smoothly accommodating both slow sippers and the gulp-and-go crowd.  You can even pick up some new skills at Leather Lane’s regular barista training and coffee tasting events.
Nearest tube: Old Street
Nearest overground: Shoreditch High Street

2) The Bridge Coffee House and Bar Lounge
The steampunk-style clutter of this coffee place is the reason I keep returning.   An ancient cash register hulks over the bar, the windows are swathed in red velvet and wherever you look there’s the gleam of brass.  It’s a world away from the grime and hustle of Kingsland Road outside.  They serve pastries and light snacks, and in the evening the whole place becomes a bar.
Nearest tube: Old Street
Nearest overground: Shoreditch High Street

3) Fabrique
London’s first proper Swedish bakery burrows into the railway arches behind Hoxton’s Geffrye Museum. As well as offering giantic rye loaves and toothsome cakes, they brew proper Swedish coffee – which means you’ll definitely be wide awake by the time you leave.  Cinnamon buns are dotted with crunchy sugar pearls and the ginger cookies are incredibly more-ish. There’s an emphasis on Swedish festival food, so in early December I’ll be beating a path to their door for lussekatter (sweet saffron buns).
Nearest tube: Old Street
Nearest overground: Hoxton

4) Genesis Cinema Cafe
The recently refurbished Genesis Cinema has created a cool cafe space at its entrance, replete with squashy leather sofas and old film posters.  They buy their beans from the fabulous Nude Espresso, who also ran training sessions to turn box office staff into Inglorious Baristas.  Old-school pastries and cakes are from east end institution Rinkoff’s Bakery.  You can also get a decent glass of wine and Meantime beer.
Nearest tube: Stepney Green
Nearest overground: Whitechapel

5) G&T
Nestled in a tiny spot half-way up Cambridge Heath Road, G&T offer coffee and organic sandwiches and cakes.  More of a take-away than a place to linger (like Prufrock’s Shoreditch branch, the only seats are outside), but it’s definitely worth stopping by for a flat white and a toffee apple muffin.
Nearest tube: Bethnal Green
Nearest overground: Cambridge Heath

Ombra, East London

Ombra is an East London twist on the Venetian bacaro (bar serving small plates of food), even down to its Regent’s Canal-side location.  Chef-owner Andrea Michelon has a background in architecture and his interest in stripped-back urban design is clear. But despite its cool aesthetic, you don’t come to Ombra for the slightly uncomfortable chairs.

A short menu is chalked up beside the bar each day, reflecting the seasonal availability of ingredients plus whatever the team fancy cooking at the time.  In keeping with the tapas-style of a bacaro, the food is on the small side but unfussy and supremely comforting.  The Fella’s meatloaf was deep and juicy, and the crunch and silk of my home-made pasta with squash, gorgonzola, toasted sage and amaretti was a delight. Desserts are classic and beautiful; creamy tiramisu, thick wedges of cheese and dark chocolate cake.  The bread comes from the local E5 Bakehouse and wines and spirits are, of course, predominantly Italian.  Friends have raved about the Aperol spritz: an Irn-Bru-orange savoury spirit with prosecco and soda water that I’m yet to develop a taste for.

Prices are reasonable.  The Fella and I scoffed two courses each plus wine and coffee, which came to a total of £35 (£17.50 each).  Add to that the friendly staff and relaxed atmosphere, and despite its slightly out-of-the-way location and those unforgiving chairs, Ombra seems set for success.

1 Vyner Street, Hackney / Tower Hamlets, London E2 9DG

Nearest tube: Bethnal Green
Nearest overground: Cambridge Heath

24 hours in Copenhagen

Magstraede 16. Photo: © Mette Jensen. From http://www.greed.dk

Solo traveller? In Copenhagen? With 24 hours to spend as you please?  Well, this is what I did.

Afternoon:
I know the city quite well, so didn’t want to do the usual tourist things.  Spotting a break in the gloomy weather, I meandered around the beautiful Botanic Gardens in the sunshine. There are greenhouses full of exotic flowers and twisting paths through lush undergrowth.  You can picnic on the lawns and there’s an outdoor cafe.
When I visited: free entry

Coffee break:
As the rain began, I headed to Cafe Salonen.  Artfully mis-matched cushions, great coffee and 80s electronica make it the perfect place to relax for an hour or two.
When I visited: DKK 25 for a coffee.

Evening meal:
Delicious pizza at Magstraede 16.  An old townhouse has been transformed into a perfect slice of Scando-cool meets the rustic Mediterranean – and it really works.  White walls, battered floorboards, exceptionally good food and great selection of wines.
When I visited: DKK 295 for two courses and wine.

After dinner:
It was still raining so I ran for the Gloria, an independent cinema on Copenhagen’s main square.  It has large comfy seats and a very civilised bar for pre- and post-film drinks.
When I visited: DKK 80 for a ticket.

Overnight:
The Zleep Hotel Astoria.  It’s convenient (it’s right next to the train station), clean and affordable, but also noisy and pretty basic.  Formerly Copenhagen’s first five star hotel, it boasts the city’s oldest revolving door.
When I visited: DKK 399 per night, room only.

Breakfast:
Opposite the central train station and overlooking the Tivoli Gardens, the Andersen Bakery makes fantastic breads, pastries, sandwiches and cakes.  Breakfasts and brunches are divine and you can pick up extra treats for picnicking later on in the day.  I particularly recommend a kanelsnegle (a squidgy cinnamon pastry coiled into a snail shape). Coffee refills are free.
When I visited: DKK 78 for a set brunch including drinks.

Morning:
Continuing drizzle  meant I needed more indoor entertainment, so I explored the nearby National Museum.  Packed with fascinating pieces, its highlights include Bronze Age bodies, Viking sculpture and medieval jewellery. Clear explanations are in both Danish and English.  There’s a museum shop and a cafe.
When I visited: free entry.

Lunch:
An all-you-can-eat buffet at Riz Raz.  Just off the main shopping street, this bright restaurant offers a great selection of mainly vegetarian salads, pastas, curries and noodles.  It’s ideal for a quick and tasty meal on the go.
When I visited: DKK 79 for all you can eat.

So that’s my 24 hours in Copenhagen.  What would you do?